How do I know if I can replace the 27 inch wheels with c wheels on my bike? Ask Question. Asked 9 years, 4 months ago. Active 3 years, 7 months ago. Viewed 51k times. Improve this question. Nate Kamerick Nate Kamerick 81 1 1 gold badge 1 1 silver badge 2 2 bronze badges. Yeah, you'd have to get new wheels.
And then you hope that the brakes will still work. Add a comment. Active Oldest Votes. Improve this answer. THAT would be extra work Believe it or not, that was something I considered with a past rebuild. But you can't reposition where the front brake attaches and I was hesitant to jimi-rig an adapter for something crucial like the brakes. You will probably need to drop your brake calipers. Despite fitting long-reach Tektro R calipers, the back wheel looked like this: There might have been another millimetre by fiddling, but not the difference I needed.
Please ignore the dodgy-looking cracked tyre sidewalls Here's the drop-plate I made from 6mm of scrap aluminium bar. Fitting that with lots of copper grease and some solid bolts gives this: Curiously, the same brake on the front reached the wheel rim perfectly without any crafting.
I should have lowered it even more, but this way there's clearance for a mudguard someday. DanS DanS 1 1 gold badge 4 4 silver badges 8 8 bronze badges. Leonard Heasman Leonard Heasman 1. The rim diameter of a c wheel is actually slightly smaller than that of a '27inch'. Even if if is hard to find 27 inch wheels there seems to be no great difficulty getting NOS 27 inch rims, that can be made up into wheels by a wheelbuilder. I think you can still buy mm width hubs, but others may know if that is correct.
Ironically I have a fairly basic Koga Miyata Sports tourer. I have a suspicion that this bike was basically made for 27inch wheels but the Koga people who marketed it in Europe perhaps thought it would have plenty of space for mudguards if they sold it with C instead.
The modern bicycle is a curious hodgepodge of measurement units. The wheel went French, but the bottom bracket has mostly stayed English, the chain is in English measurement units, and the headsets are still an inch or an inch and an eighth etc.
Funny that. Stop handing them the stick! If I had trouble sourcing them the bicycle would hold a lot less appeal to me. A radius difference of 4mm. Wheels are an even bigger area of improvement imo. My cheap c17 zondas with a 16f 21r spoke count and rear spoking are stiff, strong and fast. The rear spoking works well. I'd be trying to make c wheels work. I care more how it rides than looks, so that is where I'm coming from. Dogs are the best people.
Re: 27 or c Post by warthog1 » Mon Jul 13, am If comparable tyres are available fair enough I do love the the zing a good set of wheels and tyres gives a bike, but yes it does come from a modern perspective. Re: 27 or c Post by ldrcycles » Mon Jul 13, am While it's true there is only a small difference in the rim diameter, you have to remember they are 32mm tyres, not 23 or For me, unless speed is the only consideration which is really just down to lighter wheels being available in C , 27" is head and shoulders better.
Better handling on unsealed roads, smoother on all surfaces, pretty much bombproof. I've done all 10 Noosa Strade Bianche events without a single puncture. Road Record Association of Australia. Re: 27 or c Post by uart » Mon Jul 13, am If it's only something that you want to ride occasionally and you want to keep it as original as possible, then keeping 27 inch is ok.
I'm quite pleased with the conversion! If you switch to narrow c rims, your brakes may not reach even though you have the requisite extra 4mm. I see this a lot with centerpull brakes. Use wider hybrid or touring rims to avoid this problem. Thanks Kent for the great information.
I was going to stick with 27" rims for economical purposes, but I love the ride of that old bike and putting a few extra dollars into it will be worth it. Also Kent, if you get a kickback from Redline you're the reason I bought a Monocog a couple years ago.
With the Alfine 8 addition it's my go to bike Thanks Charlie for the additional information, I'll look into the wider rim. Keep bicycle wheelbuilding simple by not worrying about different construction theories. Lacing patterns and spoke orientation are widely debated among wheelsmiths but are trivial compared to component choices and proper truing and tensioning. Post a Comment.
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